My Month of Salmon
It sounds like a dream job and it was. Fifteen finalists competing to find the best Ōra King Salmon chefs in New Zealand and I had the enviable task of flying about the country to sample eight of these extraordinary dishes. Seven flights, four nights away from home and eight terrific experiences.
As I write this I am waiting for my co-judge Anna King Shahab to return from an overseas jaunt later this week so we can meet and decide the final four. The outright winner will be named at an October lunch in the Marlborough Sounds, a stone’s throw from the pristine waters that are home to the salmon farms.
So I am not about to give even a hint at this stage of just who that could be. Suffice to say that every single dish I sampled would be worthy of the title.
I started in Wellington, during Welly On A Plate and returned there three weeks later to devour five more salmon dishes. In between I ate salmon in Christchurch, Banks Peninsula and Auckland. Everywhere I went I invited a foodie to help me (although I am not sure if my husband is a true foodie – he wants only salmon or other fresh seafood with a salad for dinner every night). I ate in three hotels, one bar, one luxury resort and three restaurants.
The diversity of our culinary scene was on display. Salmon complemented by Indian flavours, salmon prepared with Japanese techniques, salmon with distinct European flair, salmon that paid homage to the traditional kai of Aotearoa and salmon that was prepared with respect for all that’s seasonal and fresh. Some dishes were simple, some amazingly complex and in every case the rich colour and flavour of Ōra King managed to shine and capture attention as the star of the show. Every dish was a highlight in my adventures and month of devouring salmon.
Other highlights included the trip with New Zealand King Salmon Territory Manager Jeremy Griffiths to Annandale on Banks Peninsula. It was a moody stormy day and I was delighted I didn’t have to drive myself over those hills on a twisty winding road with steep drop-away banks on every curve. Annandale is a very exclusive luxury resort on a huge working coastal farm so it was a real privilege to visit.
I can tell you if you need a drink and a delicious snack while in Christchurch go to Dragon’s Den. If you’re in Wellington and dining at Hippopotamus in the Museum Art Hotel, do not miss the Crepes Suzette cooked table side, as they should be. 180° Restaurant in the Millennium Hotel has unexpected superb inner harbour views and a Baked Alaska not to miss. Logan Brown is not only a cheerful place for lunch, but the welcome is as friendly as you can find. And if you want a real hideaway with innovative thoughtful food, head to Artisan on Bolton Hotel’s mezzanine floor.
And in my home town, Auckland, I ate six of the freshest oysters I have had anywhere at Harbourside (oh, 180° Restaurant had amazing Te Matuku oysters too). And no-one, just no-one else in New Zealand’s restaurant scene puts as much energy and thought in to truly representing the seasons on every plate as chef Makoto at Cocoro restaurant. Japanese chefs make an absolute art form of that.
So here’s another secret. Just what did I crave when I finally got home and could cook for myself? Anna and I shared notes on that and we both cooked salmon. Who would have guessed that eating so many salmon dishes would lead us both to a salmon addiction? (That’s my salmon pictured here…fresh salmon, sliced and dressed with a touch of soy, a drizzle of Lot 8 citrus oil and finely chopped fresh herbs from my garden.)
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