Chef Mark McAllister shares his hit list of must see (and must eat) attractions from the mountainous region of Hakone, Japan.
I knew that I would love Japan. It had been at the top of my list of countries I wanted to visit for about ten years. I was just waiting for the right time as I wanted to “do Japan” properly.
The fifth annual Ōra Awards provided that opportunity.
It is very hard to pick a highlight from a trip full of highlights. I am still processing it all! For sure meeting the Ōra King crew or “Ōra King Family” as they like to call it. Plus meeting all the other international chefs was one of the best things for me. New friends, new contacts and a great widening of each other’s network in the industry.
Tokyo is a mind blowing city and I am already visualising my return. But it was when Ōra King took us up into the mountains of Hakone that things got really special.
Built around natural hot springs and hilly countryside, our accommodation was a very old and very beautiful Ryokan. At Mikawaya Ryokan we were transported back in time and immersed into Japanese culture, customs and tradition. I was lucky enough to be in a room with its own private onsen. Sitting in that bath outside while rain fell on my face was heaven.
In the surrounding area we visited Yamake Jozo, an artisan soy, tofu and miso producer and had an amazing multi-course lunch at their vegetarian restaurant, Shisuian.
The next day we had Mochi rice cakes and a fermented rice drink “Amazake” in a traditional tea house, Amazake Chaya, that had been handed down through 13 generations! The current owner was in the kitchen grinding away. There was so much respect and care everywhere.
Out of all the amazing meals we had in Japan, it was a simple lunch at an 83 year old soba noodle shop that really stuck with me. At Hatsuhana Restaurant I ordered “Tororo Soba” which is soba noodles in hot broth with raw egg yolk and grated raw mountain yam. The yam is a specialty in this area and we were bang on in the middle of the season. And that was it. This was so bloody delicious. The broth, complex and full of umami along with the raw yam which was slightly slimey, while the fat of the egg yolk allowed my whole mouth to be coated with all the flavours as I slurped away the noodles. Washed back with local sake and beer, like every meal we had, I was a happy boy.
This dish was so simple yet so skilfully mastered – it got my mind bubbling with inspiration – like nearly every experience I had in Japan did. This trip made me want to be not only a better chef but a better person. Thank you so much Ōra King for the once in a lifetime opportunity!
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