I usually love having something sweet at the end of the meal, but it is not often I rave about it. The last memorable dessert I had was a pistachio souffle with chocolate sauce at Angela Hartnett’s Murano several years ago. This time, Trinity’s simple but stylish take on Eton Mess with a touch of theatre really grabbed me on my recent trip to London.
Adam Byatt’s Trinity has been a favourite since it opened some years back, not only because it does top notch food for reasonable prices in a neighbourhood setting, but also because it was only steps away from my Clapham home of 7 years. And on this visit, Trinity did not disappoint once again.
In my opinion, every restaurant can consider introducing an element of theatre into the mix, something to suit their style, whether low key or dramatic. It adds to the experience and delivers a lasting memory.
Years ago in Croatia, I was delivered one of those large white square platters that you either love or hate. All that sat upon it was a small black cube – nouveau cuisine to a tee. The bow-tied waiter then draped a large white napkin across my front like a screen, handed me a knife, and instructed me to break it open. With a satisfying crack, the salt cube split open to display a solo clam steaming away in its shell. The aroma of the broth and the salty bite of the clam was a pleasurable mouthful, but the fun of messily spattering salt flakes across the table with a solid whack of the knife was even better.
In similar style, Trinity’s dessert arrived in a veiled form, but this time a white sphere sat in the middle of the plate. No napkin needed and the weapon of choice a spoon, I cracked the meringue sphere to expose the traditional raspberries and cream of the Eton Mess, livened up with lychee and rose flavours. Perfectly matched with a sweet Clare Valley Riesling (Mt Horrocks), this dessert was a delight – light and refreshing for the British spring weather.
To express my approval, I decided to add my own theatrical touch with a note to the chef inscribed on the edge of the plate in icing sugar. A simple “Yum” did the job.
If you would like to read more about Trinity Restaurant…
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